On the corner of Markland and Main sits a relic. Surrounded by antiquated warehouses and dilapidated homes, Ned’s Corner Pub--which has survived two fires to date--is an artifact of the past. It is old. Its brick façade is in dire need of a power wash. Shutters on the opposite side of the building are stained orange with rust. Otherwise, the building manages to outshine most on the block. In a way, Ned’s stands as an icon, stuck somewhere between the old Kokomo of yesteryear to the south, and the modernizing Kokomo growing upward and onward to the north.
So, would this pizza live up to its hype?
Ned’s pizza is a lot like its place in Kokomo history. It is classic. Stuck somewhere between a thin crust and Brooklyn-style density, it looked much like what I expected. The crust kept its composure upon tearing off a slice, and the cheese oozed generously apart from the whole--the “cheese stretch test” is important, after all. The toppings jutted out from under the surface. It was picturesque. And the taste was much the same.
Toppings can be a very masking aspect of any pie, however, so I decided to pick apart a slice just to test the toppings on their own. I came out of that experience with my eyebrows furrowed in confusion, as my eating companion so eloquently put it. Not because they were something extraordinary. No, my emotiveness came because the toppings were actually WORSE disassembled from the whole. The pepperonis felt much like they came from a Lunchable, the mushrooms were a bit slimy, and the jalapenos likely came from a jar. They were mediocre, and that’s me being generous. But when brought together, they somehow defied logic. Like a Bermuda Triangle of food, when piled high on that cheesy square, they created a symphony of flavor far better than the isolated components individually. Even as I write this, I think it must’ve been the mysticism of the Halloween season getting to me. Nothing short of Twilight Zone-grade happenence could explain what just occurred. *Cue the intro music to X-Files*
Ned’s Corner Pub epitomizes Kokomo. It has a way of embracing those that call Kokomo home, and it serves its people well; true to its promise. Since our first outing, not much has changed at Ned’s Corner Pub, and that’s a good thing. It still serves good food and cold beer. However, pizza may be where we started this journey, but Ned’s came through as much more than just a hometown pizza joint. It’s historic for the people of this city. While writing and researching this piece, a number of random people looking over my shoulder decided to strike up a conversation about Ned’s, asking if I wanted to attend a tasting event of some type at the pub, or if I played in the shuffleboard league. Ned’s is a living, breathing heartbeat in this town. And while the pizza was solid, tasty, and thoroughly enjoyed by this writer, Ned’s Corner Pub defines this city. Pizza only feeds it.
Give me a week, Ned's, and I will probably be back for more!
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